Buyer’s Guide to Vintages December 20th Release
Cramming for Christmas
By David Lawrason, with notes from John Szabo MS, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala
We tasted a day early, gathered our picks a day early, and wrote and proofed this newsletter a day early — all so we could publish three days earlier than normal and give you more time to shop before everything comes to a halt on December 24. The pace really picks up in these last few days before Christmas, with so much to do.
Some folks stress during the Christmas cram. I actually love this period — getting things done, feeling the buzz out there on the street and in the stores, where everyone seems in a cheery mood, despite being harried. Finally, the Christmas carols everywhere do not seem out of place.
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LCBO stores are bound to be crammed over the next few days as well, but it will be interesting to see where overall “traffic” lands at year end, as alcohol sales fall (which we will undoubtedly discuss another time). And as Ontario consumers buy more and more alcohol from the big-box stores, supermarkets, convenience stores and bottle shops. This year, 2025, was the first full year of much wider distribution. How much retail business the LCBO has done compared to all other years, will surely point to its future path.
What’s certain is that the road ahead will not be led by LCBO president and CEO George Soleas, who has announced his retirement for January 31, 2026. “With a modernized beverage marketplace in place, it feels like the right time for me to retire and begin a new chapter,” said Soleas. He had been with the LCBO for 30 years, with the last ten as CEO. The interim president and CEO will be Aaron Campbell — he is currently chief of staff and VP, corporate affairs, strategy and sustainability.
Meanwhile, Vintages has taken one last fling at getting more wines on the shelves just before the holidays. It is a decent-sized release of just over 100 products, but the majority of wines are in the priced-to-move $18-to-$25 range. As a natural consequence, many of our scores are in the 80s, which does not mean they are poor wines. We found a slew of good-value buys to get you through the holidays and a handful of fantastic more expensive reds for those last-minute gifts.
Another feature for this month is John Szabo’s recent article on the wines of Roero, Devilishly Good Wine .
Sparkling Wines
(Psst, don’t forget to look at our Fizz Guide as well.)
Antech Cuvée Françoise Brut Nature Blanquette de Limoux, Languedoc, France,
$22.95 Noble Estates Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato –Limoux is thought to be the birthplace of sparkling wine in France, purported to be made by the monks at the abbey in Saint-Hilaire in 1531. Here, the local mauzac grape must account for at least 90% of the blend. This cuvée is a pure, 100% expression, crafted in the traditional method. It’s a dry, lively and elegantly composed sparkling. Subtle autolytic notes, bright acidity and a fine, creamy mousse make it as engaging in the glass as it is artful on the label.
Lightfoot & Wolfville Brut Rosé Sparkling 2021 Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia
$51.95 The Living Vine Inc.
John Szabo – Nicely toasty and fully dry rose here from the organic/biodynamic estate of Lightfoot and Wolfville, a wine of simmering intensity and depth. I love the subtle profile, the elegance, the refined mousse, the creamy underlying red berry fruit. Length is excellent.
Michael Godel – The Lightfoot & Wolfville sparkling wine program has matured into one of Canada’s best under the leadership of talented winemaker Josh Horton and vintage their Brut Rosé takes a giant leap forward with the 2021 vintage. An exciting Wolfville bubble, ideal for this holiday season and beyond.
Grange of Prince Edward Lafontaine Du Loup Brut Sparkling 2021, Ontario
$65.45 Grange of Prince Edward
David Lawrason – This is the debut of a traditional method sparkler from the Grange, made by Jonas Newman, who specializes in bubblies next door at Hinterland. It is full flavoured and fine-boned and Champagne-like, with a quite generous nose of peach/pear, subtle honey, wet stone and vague nuttiness. It is slim and elegant yet bracing on the palate, with a tight mousse and impressive length of finish.
Michael Godel – Made by PEC fizz specialist and Hinterland winemaker Jonas Newman, this feels like a traditional Champagne grape blend for roundness, full-flavour profile and exceptional all-in appeal.
White Wines
Trasiego Green Quartz Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Valle De Casablanca, Chile
$16.95 Marchands Des Ameriques Inc
John Szabo – Perfectly juicy and fresh, varietally accurate sauvignon from coastal Chile, easily the equal of many examples 30% more expensive.
Cave De Lugny Mâcon-Chardonnay 2023, Burgundy, France
$21.95 Trilogy Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – This is specifically a Mâcon chardonnay from the village of Chardonnay, that gave this grape its name. It is typically ripe and peachy from this warmer part of Burgundy, with white florals, almost tropical fruit and some leesy/bready character. It is quite full-bodied, almost viscous, slippery and rich with some warmth and sweetness. The length is very good to excellent. Tasted December 2025.
Domäne Wachau Ried Loibenberg Federspiel Riesling 2023 Wachau, Austria
$32.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – This is an exceptional riesling — I love its focus and immaculate balance. I recommend buying a case of it at this price, especially given how well it pairs with bold, spice-infused cuisine.
Sara d’Amato – A riesling from the famously steep Loibenberg in the Wachau, made as Federspiel—literally the “midpoint” on Austria’s ripeness scale, that proves great things happen when you find the right balance. Energetic and food-ready, with a lingering finish of slatey mineral, cotton blossom and lime zest.
Michael Godel – Impressively ripe, also flinty and already exhibiting the grape’s penchant for petrol showing up in these early returns. The leading Austrian wine cooperative has produced another fine vintage.
Closson Chase Unoaked Chardonnay 2024 Prince Edward County, Ontario
$35.00 Closson Chase Vineyards
John Szabo – Big volume and intensity here on the nose, you could say in the Chablis style — in which the County excels considering the natural concentration of these low-yielding vines. This would be comfortable alongside many examples, even more expensive, from that chardonnay region in northern Burgundy. Drink or hold mid term.
Red Wines
Montes Limited Selection Pinot Noir 2023, Aconcagua Costa, Aconcagua Valley, Chile
$16.95 Profile Wine Group
David Lawrason – Very few pinots from anywhere can touch this for delivering pinot red fruit, spice and juicy acidity at this price. But there is more: including Chile’s almost evergreen/boldos garrigue and forest floor. It is light bodied, a bit tart and warm, with fine tannin. Perfect lightly chilled for leftover turkey sandwiches.
Falernia Gran Reserva Carmenère 2021, Elqui Valley, Chile
$17.95 Du Chasse Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – This high mountain valley in north-central Chile always presents very aromatic yet soft and rich reds. This carmenere displays very lifted jammy raspberry/rhubarb fruit, roasted red pepper, peppermint and barrel spice. It is medium weight, silky smooth, hot at 14.5% and almost sweet.
Michael Godel – Smell this once and the Elqui Valley will be on your radar. Put your nose in a second time and carmenère becomes expressive of the cool truth. Once you go Elqui you never go back.
Aubert & Mathieu Marie Antoinette Corbières 2023, Languedoc France
$19.95 Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc
David Lawrason – This is a lively, slightly rough and gritty blend of syrah and grenache. It captures the rocky, shrubby ambiance of the Corbières, up against the Pyrenees. The nose shows generous blackcurrant/plum, fresh rosemary/oregano herbs, violet and stony notes. It is medium-full bodied, fairly dense yet energized.
Tezza Flavio Corte Majoli Valpolicella 2024, Veneto, Italy
$19.95, Rare Earth Wines Sara d’Amato – A bright, juicy Valpolicella that lets the fruit steal the show. Stainless-steel aging keeps it fresh, with just a touch of stylish reduction for interest. Upbeat, characterful and textbook for pizza-and-pasta nights, it’s lightly salty, clean and snappy. A perfectly approachable, budget-friendly red to sip while stirring the sauce over the holidays.
Morandé Vitis Única Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Valle Del Maipo, Chile
$19.95 Majestic Wine Cellars
John Szabo – Classically styled Maipo Valley cabernet, with plentiful dark fruit mingling with that savoury, resinous herb character that reminds me of the tea made in Chile from the leaves of the boldo tree, which are similar to bay leaf. Solid and satisfying wine, ready to drink or hold 2–4 years or so.
Michael Godel – Morande’s Vitis Única mines terroir and shows just how well they create symmetries between variety and place. A focused and determined varietal wine from which all roads lead to delicacy.
Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa
$21.95 Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – A juicy and nicely balanced, highly drinkable vintage for Kanonkop’s “entry” pinotage, a pacesetter for the genre.
David Lawrason – A well-balanced, affordable and authentic peek into one of the world’s most confounding varieties.
Ravine Meritage 2021, Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara-on-the-Lake
$24.95, Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery
Megha Jandhyala – Ravine’s Meritage is simply delicious and approachable in every sense of the word — a charming harmony of red fruit, herbs and flowers. It will make for a versatile and appealing addition to holiday gatherings.
Sara d’Amato – For those who’d prefer to choose wine from closer to home over the holidays, this is a refined, juicy, mid-weight cabernet franc-merlot from an organically farmed estate. Modern in feel but with a nod to classic Bordeaux, it offers bright red plum and strawberry jam, a lightly salty edge and a clean, finely crafted profile. Excellent value.
Château du Moulin Rouge Haut Médoc Cru Bourgeois Supérieur 2019, Bordeaux, France
$32.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines
Sara d’Amato – Nope, not that Moulin Rouge, this Cru Bourgeois from Cussac-Fort-Médoc, has been producing wine for 13 generations, sitting neatly between Saint-Julien and Margaux although stylistically pulled into Saint-Julien’s orbit. From a 27-hectare, HVE-certified estate with 45-year-old vines, the excellent 2019 vintage is aging with real momentum. The tannins are firm but far from immovable, landing the wine in a very stable drinking window right now.
Black Bank Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula
$34.95 Black Bank Hill
John Szabo – A nicely polished, balanced, flavourful and, indeed, seductive example of cabernet sauvignon from Niagara, of uncommon quality and also uncommonly low price for that quality. It’s very much on par with anything out of Bordeaux in the same price range; drink now to 2032 or so.
Tornatore Pietrarizzo Etna Rosso 2021, Sicily, Italy
$37.95 Nicholas Pearce Wines
Sara d’Amato – A sure-fire hit over the holidays, this Sicilian nerello mascalese is bright, savory, and ready to drink. Delicately spicy with elegant, red-fruited notes and subtle botanicals, the mid-weight palate shows appealing juiciness and a saline edge. Poised and finely crafted.
David Lawrason – This provides a beautiful, bright aromatic display with lifted cranberry, botanicals, nutmeg and other spices. It is medium weight, intense and juicy with fresh acidity, warmth and all-round great energy. Tannins are modest but firm — but in a constructive way.
Megha Jandhyala – A step up from Tornatore’s classic Etna rosso, this perfumed, iridescent single-contrada nerello mascalese is in its ideal drinking window now.
Rubinelli Vajol Corte Sant Anna Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2017, Veneto, Italy
$71.95 Appellation Wines
John Szabo – This is a particularly silky and suave, elegant and refined, complex and satisfying Amarone from Vajol, declared at just 15% alcohol, low for Amarone, but there’s no shortage of extract, and intensity is high. A good choice for gifting, a high-quality wine from a name-brand appellation, widely satisfying.
La Torre Brunello Di Montalcino 2020, Tuscany, Italy
$74.95 John Hanna & Sons Limited
John Szabo – Another excellent gifting option from a blue-chip appellation, also a wine of exceptional quality. I love the refined tannins and silky-firm texture, very much in the classic spectrum. I feel it still has much to gain. Be sure to decant if serving over the next 2 to 3 years, to give it some air. But ideally cellar into the early 2030s to enjoy its full potential.
Michael Godel – A sense of place is well transmitted through the blood and bones of this sangiovese. Substantial, concentrated and occupying a top position for 2020 Brunello. Truly impressive for the vintage with just that first hint of “sottobosco” undergrowth creeping into the fold.
David Lawrason – Here’s a gentle giant among Brunellos, a traditional take with intense, complex aromas and flavours set within a restrained but warming palate. The nose lifts off with well-integrated notes of burning leaves, cinnamon, cran-cherry fruit, fine cedary wood spice and roasted chestnuts. Very autumnal. It is medium bodied, fairly smooth, rich and warming with considerable chippy, drying tannin.
And that’s a wrap for the last edition of 2025. It has been a very busy and gratifying year for all of us at WineAlign, and we look forward to keeping the pace in 2026. But that may be hard to do as we say goodbye to our beloved Sarah Goddard who retired the moment she hit “send” on this newsletter. She has been more than a manager. She has been our glue and calming spirit.
We thank you our readers for your support and wish you all the best of the season and an excellent 2026. We return to review Vintages January 10 release.
David Lawrason
Use these quick links for access to all of our December 20th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – December 20th
Lawrason’s Take – December 20th
Michael’s Mix – December 20th
Sara’s Selections – December 20th
Megha’s Picks – December 20th
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