If I Could Buy Only One – February 1st Vintages Release
We asked our writers, “If you could buy only one wine from the February 1st release, which one would it be and why?”
Jean Max Roger Cuvée Genèse Sancerre 2022, Loire, France
$34.25, Connexion Oenophilia
Sara d’Amato – If the chill of winter has you feeling down, this bright, zesty white is sure to shake away the winter doldrums. Jean-Max Roger’s flagship wine is the genesis or “genèse” of the estate, crafted from ancestral parcels in the village of Bué that thrive on the region’s signature “Caillottes” soils – limestone pebbles of Kimmeridgian origin. An inviting balance between modern elegance and traditional character, this Sancerre captures the cool, nervy edge of the appellation while offering a surprising richness of flavour on the palate. The fruit is ripe but never overwhelming and features a mouthwatering juiciness and deference to austerity with flavours of lemon-lime, passion fruit, and distinctive minerality that brings depth to the palate.
Mullineux Kloof Street 2022 Red, Swartland, South Africa
$21.75, Nicolas Pearce
David Lawrason – This is my only one by default because it is one of the very few wines I have tasted from this release – having been in Ottawa last week coordinating 42 wines donated by 16 wineries over four events within the Canadian Culinary Championship. This is a seriously good, balanced if lighter hearted red from one of the best producers of South Africa. Chris and Andrea Mullineux are farming biodynamically in the interior Swartland region, and at the premium end making some of the Cape’s most coveted wines. But this dials back the depth and power a bit. My reflex was to compare it to French Cotes du Rhone, but it shows more tenderness somehow. And a sense if purity. The aromas capture plum, pepper, dried herbs, caraway, licorice and granite. It is very even, not soft, fresh but not overtly juicy. The kind of wine I could drink all evening, lightly chilled. Very good to excellent length.
Henry Of Pelham The School House Cabernet/Merlot 2020, VQA Short Hills Bench, Ontario
$27.95, Henry of Pelham
Michael Godel – No need to get all political on WineAlign readers and yet supporting Canadian wine is always a good idea. Over the years I have had the great fortune to taste and be amazed by this producer’s work with the Bordelais, a.k.a. cabernet-merlot-cabernet formula. Genius from winemakers crafting blends that have aged beautifully well out of historic Ontario red wine vintages like 1998, 2002, 2005, 2010 and 2016. Henry Of Pelham The School House Cabernet/Merlot 2020 joins the progression from yet another stellar vintage. The School House refers to the old building at Henry of Pelham’s northern boundary built with dark red stone quarried from atop the Niagara Escarpment overlooking the home vineyard. In classic cabernet-merlot fashion this meets the liquid cocoa, dark chocolate and fruit succulence of an H of P red. Certainly lesser in terms of extraction, concentration and texture as compared to the Speck Family Reserve and yet the genes and style are consistent with that much bigger and structured wine. Positivity comes from the cool centring here, collocated by a warm vintage to elevate the overall game. Drink this confidently through to the end of 2026 or beyond. FYI, also a Silver Medal winner at the 2024 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada with four (published) 90-point scores from the judges.
Morandé Vitis Única Pinot Noir 2022, Do Valle De Casablanca, Chile
$17.05, Majestic Wine Cellars
As for my Only One (alcoholic) wine from the release, it would have to be the Morandé Vitis Única Pinot Noir 2022. In November last year I led a trade seminar on pinot noir from Chile, an unusual topic since the grape accounts for only 3% of vineyard acreage, and few consumers associate Chile with pinot noir. And yet, quality has leaped forward in the last decade, with better plant material planted in the right (cool climate) areas and winemaking shifted away from trying to turn it into cabernet or merlot, a fact underscored by the tasting. This example is from the pioneering producer of the Casablanca Valley, which is the pioneering region for pinot noir in Chile, an appealingly fresh and crunchy, balanced and impeccably made pinot. And, I ask, where else in the world can you find decent pinot that tastes like pinot for under $20? Be sure to chill lightly.
Zeronimo Sparkling Select 2023, Austria
$45.25, The Søbr Market
John Szabo – Outside of my “Only One” Vintages pick, since my article this week reported on non-alcoholic products, I’ve got a suggestion for those keen to start explore the category: Zeronimo Sparkling Select, Austria ($24.50/375ml or $45.25/750ml, pick up or order online from The Søbr Market, not available at the LCBO). In my experience, sparkling wine is the most successful non-alcoholic wine style for reasons I explain in the article, and Zeronimo makes one of the better ones I’ve come across. Made from Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, there’s quite substantial flavour intensity on offer in a very dry and crisp, low calorie style. Effervescence is prominent but not overly aggressive, enough to firm and freshen up the citrus and green apple flavours. Length, too, is well above the mean in the category. I’d rate Zeronimo as a leading producer. <0.5% 25 g/l sugar, 14 cal per 100ml serving.
Use these quick links for access to all of our February 1st Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – February 1st
Michael’s Mix – February 1st
Sara’s Selections – February 1st
